Coda alla Vaccinara
Born in the heart of Rome, in the Regola district where the vaccinated lived, the vaccinara tail is considered the “queen” of the fourth quarter, or what remains of the vaccine beast after the valuable parts have been sold to the well-to-do. Part of the fifth quarter is the tail, tripe, pajata, heart, spleen, and all offal . There are two good times, which differ in the final part of the preparation, where a sauce is prepared based on bitter cocoa, pine nuts and raisins, while in the other it is not. For some of the two variants we can speak of an original recipe, as it has coexisted for many decades in the various trattorias of Rome.
The first version is the one indicated by Ada Boni in her book La cucina romana (1929). The author, considered as a main housewife, indicates a preparation for double use: preparation with the same meat and the first course with the broth obtained by boiling the tail, and then a second of meat from the tail at the vaccinara proper . The tail, therefore, was initially boiled, so as to be more useful for other dishes. The meat continues to cook in a dove saucepan and has been sautéed with chopped garlic, onion, parsley, carrot, lard and a slice of ham. Then a little tomato sauce is added, part of the broth and blanched celery. The cooking continued until the sauce was not restricted. The other version is a richer dish, which could be found in trattorias and restaurants, and to which a poem by Cesare Simmi, owner of “La Cisterna”, had also been dedicated since 1928. Take an oxtail and wash it under running water to remove blood. Cut to touches, or “rocchi”, and brown it with chopped lard (or guanciale) and oil. As soon as it is browned, add a chopped onion with two cloves of garlic, cloves, salt and pepper. Let the water thrown out of the tail evaporate, blend with dry white wine and cook for a quarter of an hour covered. Then add a kilo of peeled tomatoes into pieces. Let it cook for about an hour, then stretch the sauce with hot water to cover the tail, cover it again and continue cooking for another 3 hours. In the meantime, he smoked celery. As soon as it is ready, drain it and put it in a pan with a bit of tail sauce, pine nuts, raisins and bitter cocoa. This sauce should be boiled for a few minutes and then poured over the tail when serving.